Zafra to Merida

This long and plain continued and we passed through Villafranca de los Barros, Almendralejo and Torremeija to finally arrive in Merida. Andrej’s mobile phone, at one time, simply refused to turn on?! Fortunatelly in Merida we found a small service that was really good in fixing mobile phones. They said the problem laid in the fact that a lot of dust entered the phone and blocked the power coming out from the battery. Now we are “online” again!

*No man can be a prophet in his own land, an old saying claims. How would yourself from future see this?

Merida was such a discovery! It’s strong Roman heritage and size resembles my hometown Pula. Maybe because of this I felt this city has some healing influence over my body and soul.

It was like Camino gave us some time to rest. And one more thing, it looked like an oasis in that dusty, dry and yellow „desert“ we just came out and which drained so much out of us already. In total, for the hotel room and for all meals, museums and souvenirs I spent here some 80 Euros.

Merida Roman museum is very rich. Beside many exhibits, it preserves an original part of the famous and ancient Roman road.

Breakfast at Cafeteria Via Flavia.

Lunch at El Pestorejo restaurant and we had wine Puerta Palma from Ribera del Guadiana.

*“He is not dumb at all, just that was always in a hurry“

Merida to Aljucen

We are leaving Merida via Calle Calvaria (again Calvaria!) at seven and passing by the old Roman aqueduct. Such a pity we haven’t had time yesterday to visit all Merida’s Roman monuments.

We have to go on but my feets hurt me now too much so we switched shoes. Andrej’s lower and lighter ones for my high and heavy boots. Thank God we wear the same size. It was a great sacrifice from his side as later he himself had problems with his feets caused by my boots. I’m still grateful to him because without changing for lighter shoes I woud not be able to finish this Camino.

Slight uphil out of the city, walking on a bicycle path, in parallel with the highway. Sun is slowly coming up.

Merida was now just a vision behind us in that magic valley. It was an honor walking on this stretch of the road as it was the original, ancient Roman road! And this morning mist, between those cork trees, just added to this sensation.

Soon we arrived at a lake and the old Roman dam (Proserpina).

Wonderment as one has to ask himself: „how is this construction still there, in its function, after all those centuries and milleniums?!“. In the next village we encountered a black dog. I dreamed a black dog last night. Was that some kind of a sign? I went to google what this dream could mean i this ih what I found: “Black dogs in dreams can be a way to process grief, depression, loneliness, separation from a loved one. Dreaming of a black dog represents deep emotional change and transformation that you are going through. They are guardians of the shadow realm and can appear when you are moving through deep shadow work“.

A pillion with Santiago metallic red cross on top. Later, yet another (this time on metallic pillar).

We arrived at Aljuncen very early, at 11:30. Today’s stage was very short, on purpose, to heal wound). The Albergue San Andres was still closed so we stayed at the nearby bar and took a bocadillo (in Spain, is a sandwich made with Spanish bread, usually a baguette or similar type of bread, cut lengthwise). The information was that the Albergue might be closed but Miss Anne who runs the villages’ other accommodation at Casa Rural (more expensive) could offer that one (the more expensive one of course) instead. Suddenly, we realized that the same person actually runs both places – Miss Anne?! I asked for the mobile number and immediately called and texted her. Philippe from France called her eventually. Soon, we had her open the Albergue for us (the less expensive one). We welcomed this “turn of events” together with few other pilgrims. She instructed us, in detail, about the house rules and order of tenure (in Spanish: Orden de ocupacion). Those rules should apply on the whole route and in all Caminos: pilgrims walking with backpacks should have absolute priority, before groups and those going on bicycles.

She also informed us about the options for dinner at three restaurants: tienda shop, hogar del pensionista and bar parque. Meaning cheap, modest and expensive. The same second I suspected she was related with all of those restaurants. The village has also modern roman termas called Aqua libera for just 5 euros. I accepted that offer immediately and took an almost hour long recuperation process (which started with a swim in a small pool), from 15:30-16:30.

I strongly believe this helped me a lot with my Achilles tendon problem and made me ready enough to proceed with the Camino!

Conditions in the albergue were pretty spartan. Still, later we had at least a short siesta nap. After the dinner, at the second best restaurant Kiosko El Parque (since we already tried the lower end one and the best was closed) we gathered all of pilgrims (three tables in total). We had red wine Llanillo, from Bodega Hnos.Correa. All for 12 Euros. The old, funny (happily smiling) owner of the place was trying to tell me the wi-fi password. Then he wrote it to me. Again, something was wrong. „Hota, hota … hota, hota, hota …maiuscola …hota, hota!!! Hahaha!!!“. A strange moment occurred – Enio Moricone’s music appeared for a moment (from an old Fiat)?! Just across, the late sun was putting its mild shine on the Saint Jacob church shrine. Later we had an extra cofee and muffin for 3 Euros.

The very first one that we visit on this Camino. We were told (by Miss Anne) that the tour would start exactly at seven PM guided by, you guess – Miss Anne.

I forgot my socks in this Albergue. For the first time I’m forgetting something and when I think about it I wasn’t bothered at all. Camino was already changing my mind.

*Settle this „short fuse“ of mine. Is this protective guard reall needed or was just making me problems without any reason?