Villafranca del Bierzo to O’Cebreiro
Wake up at 6:45. A toast and coffee with milk for 3.95 Euros. Departure at 8:00 and a bit of wandering around exiting this town. Long walk was ahead of us. First on the road which follows col between two hills. Then off-road, uphill to enter the magic Galicia. When the mind is calibrated for a certain challenge ahead and there is a promise of a gift to be received at the end then the body is ready. So it was. Walk through Pereje, Trabadelo, Valcarce, Ruitelan, Las Herrerias, La Faba, Laguna de Castilla.
After first 13 kilometers bocadillo with ham, a juice and coffee for 6.50 Euros.
Some 5 kilometers ahead, another short stop for a Cola for 1.50 Euros.
The long walk in the col was nice and at a high pace. Then the uphill, from Las Herrerias was easier as the path went off-road, on soft trails and meadows.
In the first village after La Faba cow’s shit all over the pavement and that nice smell reminded me of my childhood weekends in my fathers native village. Il perfume de la mierda de vaca (the perfume of the cow’s shit). One have to understand this beauty! Those reminiscences bring always peace.
Another Cola from this vending machine, for the same price 1.50 Euros.
A photo of the stone on the Galiacian border.
Entering divine history! My will was driving me so strongly that O’Cebreiro was almost missed when actually was reached! Entered the small originally shaped church.
Ancient music, calm and a smile.
Andrej choosed the same old tavern for accomodation as he did on the previous two Camion’, Meson Anton. The same old ower is friendly as ever. Fantastic gallician pulpo! Fresh cheese with honey! Accomodation was 25 Euros per person. Cheese and wine entry was 3.50 Euros and the dinner was 12.20 Euros.
My first day in “Middle Earth”!
O’Cebreiro to Tricastela
It was raining and still dark, at 7:50 when we left O’Cebreiro but within half of an hour daylight emerged. Sun rays were struggling to pass through heavy, iron clouds. Strong wind was blowing all around the plateau when we were walking toward Linares. Alto de San Roque is at 1.270 meters of elevation above the sea level. A cofee and toast fro 2.50 Euros.
Taking a photo with the big bronze statue of the peregrino. Interestigly, is in the same stance as we are right now, struggling to walk against the wind. Maybe this wind lies here, on the top of this hill from ever and eternally? Just to remind us…
Then again, the magic play of lights on the sky covered with white and silver couds. All shades of the red and bronze on the celestial canvas. Sunlight brakes through on certain parts and hits the meadows and the hill sides.
That morning I was chasing the sun…
It’s one Saturday in 2014. and I’m writing this in the lobby of the ITC Grand Central hotel in Mumbai, India-Bharat: “I still remember that morning, third of October two thousand and thirteen, around eight fortyfive in the morning“.
After a while we walk downhill to a bar for our coffee. We meet again those Americans.
Eight hundred years old tree! And through this soft landscape of small hills and all those greenery.
Cows and meadows. Nice old villages on the way. A lady is offering apples.
I asked to take a photo of her. She didn’t want, I didn’t buy apples. Very simple old non-trade. The weather was playing with us all the way after Alto de San Roque. Entering Tricastella to look for a decend accomodation. On the other side, we saw a long line in front of the pilgrim’s hostel so we went for a private, although very modest accomodation.
Senora Olga from Casa Olga Triacastela took us in, for 15 Euros per person. Yet another very long Wi-Fi password. Rest. Went for a late lunch / early dinner at Restaurante Esther. Good meals: pork steak, warm soup and red vine Veterano, from Osborne. St Jacob’s cake for a desert! All that good dinner for 10 Euros.
Time now goes very slow. Slight rain will help get into the most needed sleep.
*What is the target of a trip? Assumptions?
*Leave behind all that is not really needed for the trip.