Casar de Caceres to Embalse de Alcantara

A good and restoring sleep. Departure was delayed a bit since we figured we will not make it all the way to Canaveral today. So we departed at 6:30. First part of the trail (15 kilometers) was very good for hiking: nice soil and good macadam. One of the most beautiful sunrise had to me “immortalized” by taking some photos. This same day we will be give also the most beautiful sunset. Camino is rewarding us generously!

Old ancient stones and roman milestones, nice farm, good weather.

But then we met this new highway construction site which made us make a detour. The next kilometers were very harsh. First extremely, even sadistic trail and then hot asphalt and two bridges over the Tajo river. A lot of energy was consumed to walk today.

Once we descended and finally reached this big water reservoir we figured out that we lucklily came upon an albergue. The info sigs was saying that we are really close and that the accomodation is “just around the corner”. God know in which conditions this ablergue, here in the middle of nowhere, would be. Is it open at all? Still, it was great we found at least some kind of accomodation. Last half kilometer, around that small hill, almost bare of all vegetation, we had to walk on heavy macadam. In the end a total surprise for us and a wonderful revelation: long concrete building with extremely thick shutters – a genuine atomic shelter just above the most beautiful Embalse de Alcántara. In theory, we could continue to Canaveral but in fact that was simply impossible. Beside, now that we are here we didn’t want to leave this astonishing place. Andrej went for a walk nearby the water and I stayed up in front of the Albergue. Albergue Turistico Via de la Plata Embalse de Alcantara. Then we had a meal of paella, tonic and cofee. Later we took beers too, for 8 Euros.

Unmistakaly an atomic shelter! Embalse de Alcantara is obviously a strategic reverve of water for Spain and probably for the close Portugal so…

For the sunset we all gathered in some kind of sacred peace, sitting on chairs in front of the Albergue, on the terrace. Just a few of us. Mostly in silence. The sleep was kind of ok but still the air was hot and humid. Vent was running all night long but didn’t help much.

*If every Camino is like a new life, do we actually live as many lives as many Caminos we undertake?

*How much one can reassess himself in those “40 days in the desert”?

Embalse de Alcantara to Grimaldo

Awaken at 6:15, acoffeee and by 6:45 departure toward Canaveral. We didn’t like the fact that we had to walk on asphalt again but the alternative seemed crazy – up and down on hills on the trail that was going in pararallel tothe road. After passing by the ruins of the old roman bridge (on the original Via de la Plata) we climb and approach a nice village.

The last kilometer or two we decided (since was possible) to take the off-road path. What a great decision! Just few hundred meters before entering Canaveral, we spotted two white horses which came to the border of their paddock. First morning warm sun rays made stop time for some moments. We came close to them to salute them as they saluted us. A pet on the nose, their gorgeous eyes are telling us… Buen Camino peregrini. Another blessing received!

The entrance to the village was so… medieval. This, once paved road, now neglected for centuries and all the mud flown out from the old fugues. Manure smell and an old protective stone wall is what one substantially feels while entering Canaveral. This old path entering the village was at first less sloped and later more and more sloped yet nicer and cleaner. The village was really old and some hidden pride was to be sensed behind all those closed doors and shutters.

At the end of the village we finally find place and time for a coffee in the local Hostal Malaga. Even there, they are all slowed down and somehow living in the past. Exposed and very old cinema projector Cine Malaga! I bought a nice knife in the shop here (Navajas Albacete).

Some funny monument dedicated to storks at the exit of the village and then climbing again on rocks. At least we are off-road again! Encountering pilgrims on the Camino riding horses. This is also one of the ways to go on the Camino. Their route is slightly different.

It was nice, I was childishly happy to meet them. From the top, once again a look back down on the huge water reservoir. Rare pine tree woods, full of annoying flies!

Then the easy and serene last few kilometers in the Metallica valley between cork trees. While looking for a shortcut to enter Grimaldo we passed under the highway viaduct only to end up in – bulls’ enclosure! Shit! Bullshit! In order not to come in proximity with those huge black animals we had to walk all the way back around this enclosure. The, as we still couldn’t pass by them we had to carefully go back sll the way we came to this point! In the end, we entered Grimaldo directly thru a narrow and steep route, even going over a tiny creek but finally arriving at the Albergue!

The moment we stepped into the local Bar Grimaldo, after of course asking for internet access, we begged for two big beers. We are in Grimaldo, the „2-1-0 village“: 2 cafés, 1 road, 0 internet. „What do you need internet for? You have to relax!“.A few locals in the bar started to sneer together with the bartender. They offer beer in just those huge, one liter mugs and it seemed they didin’t believe we were “tough enough” for those. We emptied those two extremely cold beers in one sip and immediately asked for another round! Instantly gained respect of all present!

After we settled in that “slum albergue” that was attached to the bar, we went to sit and talk with another pilgrim (from Sevilla) that occupied the other room (the Albergue in fact, had only two rooms). For the first time I pulled out and slept in my sleeping bag because the room and bed were full of bedbugs.He was looking at us in amusement and laughed about the poor condition our legs and feets were at that time.

We will meet him later, few more times again.

We asked him how often bulls attack pilgrims on this route and are the dangeorous? For the first time we raised this concern as never before we were in the situation to directly face them. He laughed. „Nooo, they would not attack you…well, if there is no cow and calf nearby. No, they would not attack you never. Well, almost never!“. Almost?!

Almost was not reassuring us. The bathroom in the modest albergue was so narrow that while sitting on the toilet one would rest his forehead exactly on the wall in front.

Convenient if you are tired or drunk. Lunch at Asador Grimaldo, had red wine Soldepenas, from Felix Solis.

*How in vain and stupid is to look to far ahead? How much burden brings? It is not rational in the end. It is ok to care about the next step and the next stage but not further than that.

*Harry Hopkins, an adviser to Franklin D. Roosevelt during World War II, “Lord Heart of the Matter”.

*Fear of injury, fear that I couldn’t continue and finish, accomplish the Camino, but deep down fear of what? All fears should be put in genuine position and consider it just as an alarm and reminder.