Tricastela to Barbadelo

It was very early and still very dark when deperted, at 7:30 in Sanxil direction (the alternative that we choose instead of Samos direction). Uphill through a narrow path and road in the woods. Water spring with that kitschy shell. Lovely in the same time.

After Sanxil we met a group of tourists from Spain and we had a short conversation on Croatia that they visited. Andrej went ahead, in distance melting with clouds. Most probably his mind was wondering somewhere up there as well.

The sun slowly overcomed this mornings’ rain and clouds and just scattered fog remained left above the green meadows and trees. Those old, low, stone houses with slated roofs add to the amtosphere of walking thorugh nature but time too. Some very ancient and remote times.

Magical green tunnels made of old trees and moss. Then a lovely tiny bringe over this small brook.

Finally at 11.00 we found a place, Casa do Franco to take a snack and cofee! Those Americans are as well there. I left my business card and a croatian banknote of ten kunas. Good sandwich with ham and cheese, Cola and coffee for 7 Euros.

Soon after, a charming black dog with an empty plastic bottle in his jaws – posing for a photo.

Old beatiful galician landscapes in which one could lost himself. A lady from USA of croatian orgin might did that after a short walk and convesation we had with her. Stubborn or just americanized? A herd of dogs bring us back to our path.

Entering Sarria, now almost in valley, walking on a nice path just parallel to the road and we „honoured“ two careless and irresponsible cyclist with the „juiciest“ croatian swearing. Some ideas came to our minds to push them from their bicycles. Thank God they passed to quickly.

A short stop in a grocery shop in the city. Now we go through the small old city sreeets uphill. Short stop for a Cola with lime – 2.50 Euros.

It’s kind a warmful and peaceful. After the graveyard we go again downhill. Stupid routing! Then again uphill, crossing the rail, toward Barbadelo.

Barbadelo should be “just around the corner” but it seems we have to walk a little bit more. Met a Korean girl, fully equiped, with few cameras, smartphones and two tablets. Those grasslands fenced with those ancient stones by the path… „stonehenge“. Amazing!

Finally we arrive and accomodate in Albergue – Pension Rural Casa de Carmen. Very strange place with all toilet covers removed?? A visit to the small and enigmatic little church Igrexa de Santiago de Barbadelo.

Church was closed. Lunch was good but wine was not. A sleep after a short rain and thunderstorms. Then a rest siting on recycled palette, on a meadow slope overlooking the whole valley. The sky was clearing now, just before sunset and those silver-cutted clouds were a nice scenery above. White wine Turbio – vino xoven, from Vinigalicia. We paid for the lunch, which was good 10 Euros but the wine was very bad.

Went again to the church of Santiago de Barbadelo. Closed again. It was 7 PM and the priest should be there after 6 PM. Whatever. Amstel beer from the nice vending machine for 1.20 Euros.

---

Barbadelo to Gonzar

Departed toward Melide at 7:30. First on this stone paved path. Yet another magical morning walk, trying to get rid of this annoying fog. Horreos (a typical granary from the northwest of the Iberian Peninsula, built in wood or stone, raised from the ground by pillars ending in flat staddle stones to prevent access by rodents). Chestnut trees. Last hundred kilometers milestone. At Casa Morgade we thake the famous coffee from a huge cup they have here!

Very good sandwich with ham and huge coffee for 8 Euros.

Walking downhill but on very good soil.

Just before descending to the bridge to Portomarin – lilacs. After all that walk through forests, through those green tunnels now we are standing in front an passage high in the open.

With respect and in silence we walked over that brigde, over that water and over that history that lies so deep below our footsteps!

Cloudy and sunny sky was reflected the river’s surface. All that green moss one could immagine is covering so many souls… On the other side a stairway to the gate of the city.

Andrej points to me a nice Hospital’s castel, up on the city’s hill which he already visited on privious Camino’s but he’s to tired to go to visit it again. I agree. A short stop for a sandwich and cola and we proceed west and we have a nice exit from the city.

Really nice weather now is accompaigning us and walking is very pleasent. One of the oldest horreos comes on our way. Horreo is a “typical granary from the northwest of the Iberian Peninsula, built in wood or stone, raised from the ground by pillars ending in flat staddle stones to prevent access by rodents“.

Arriving in Gonzar. Small village and in centre of it a lovely „court“ house, ideal to shelter for the night. Run by an entreprenurial Romanian family. We find a diverse company. The Romanian girl at the reception bar thinks we are Portugese or Brazilians, the tall German (living in Brazil) calls us Greeks (although I believe he understands well we are from Croatia). We see some familiar faces too. The thrill of being so close to Santiago is now palpable in the air. Red wine Quinteiro.

Accomodation and beer 21 Euros, lunch 10 Euros and gin and tonic with lemon 6 Euros.